Undoubtedly First Canadians frequented the blue water, the shores
and portages of Rideau Lake for millennia and it would seem that
early European homesteaders were raising their cabins and crops in
the vicinity of Portland in the 1790s. It is recorded that a saddlebag
man of the cloth was arrested as a vagabond for visitations and
sacraments that the authorities considered prolonged.
The original land grant for the site of Portland is dated 1801. But a
community was not born until the early 1820s when “The Landing”
became the major stepping-off point for those intending to homestead
in the Perth area. Settlers, the eager, the anxious, arrived from
Brockville by bush trail to The Landing, by barge to Oliver’s Ferry
(Rideau Ferry) and thence to Perth. The completion of the Rideau
Canal in 1832 opened the Rideau countryside and “Old Landing” to
the world. With the establishment of a post office in 1842, Portland
received its official name. Commercial traffic on the Rideau and
the growth of agriculture across the hinterland nurtured numerous
businesses catering to the needs of farm families and the export of
raw materials. Steamers and barges departed from Portland laden
with barrels of potash and cords of wood from the clearing of forest,
bales of tanned hides and casks of salt beef from the bounty of field.
Hence Portland became a thriving village of trade and transhipment.
But by 1900, the nature of commercial activity was changing.
Advances in rail and road travel and the advent of tourism offset a
gradual decline in the role of agriculture. Portland remains today
with much of its economic and cultural life focused on Big Rideau
Lake. The Municipal Heritage Advisory Committee endeavours with
this Walking Tour to illustrate a variety of architectural influences
reflected in the buildings of Portland. Amble casually with us.
Imagine the welcome clang of steam boat bell, the aromas of outerworld
spices and local cheddar in grocer shops, the humming of mills,
business being done, the laughter and tears of family and village life
as it was ten and fifteen decades ago.
Stop #1 - Emmanuel Anglican Church, 1861 - Built upon the crest of Portland Hill, Emmanuel Anglican Church
has watched over the scenery and the morality of the village and the
Big Rideau through the symphony of many seasons. On land donated
by the early farm family of William Sherwood, this lovely church was
masoned of Cambrian sandstone. Its ashlars were shaped and set by
some of the same artisans of stone who came to the wilderness of
Upper Canada to help build the Rideau Canal. Finding their Eden,
they then stayed and helped build a community and a culture. With
its buttressed walls and beautiful windows of stained glass, Emmanuel
is a charming example of a mid-nineteenth century rural church. It
is a Portland landmark.
Stop #2 - John Grant House, c.1872 - This sandstone house is
a variation of the mid
19th century “Ontario
Cottage” with a rectangular
shape, 1 1/2 storey and
transom and sidelights around
the front door. However, instead of the main entrance on the front
façade, it is on the gable end, likely because of the shape and slope of
the lot. Built by John Grant, local blacksmith, its masons worked with
massive and beautiful sandstone quarried from a nearby outcrop. The
house was later sold to Stephen Chipman, a cooper whose shop was
the board-and-batten barn still to be seen at the rear of the lot. There
he crafted barrels and other products of his artistry in wood that were
much in demand in rural life in times B.P. (before plastic, that is).
Next to the John Grant house is the Portland United Church. Note
especially the sandstone foundation - ashlars that were originally part
of the village school that was once located here. When the decision
was made in the late 1800s to construct a new school, the Methodists
purchased the building and lot and used it as their place of worship
until 1890. Then they demolished it and used the sandstone for the
foundations of their new church - from foundations of learning to
foundations of faith. You will see the village school later in this tour,
site #12.
Stop #3 - William Snider House, c.1850s - This pleasant home is typical of the third-stage residence of a
successful pioneer artisan. William Snider, tanner and
shoemaker, built this handsome one and
one-half storey house
framed with handhewn
timbers.
Initially clad with
clapboard, it was later
stuccoed in gray. Its
medium pitched roof
has projecting eaves
and verges plus a moulded
cornice and frieze. The main entrance is off-centre. Note the wooden
transom and pilasters on the sides, typically to let abundant natural
light into the interior hallway in those decades before electric lighting.
An open and well-shaded verandah with closed railing provided the
Snider family and later residents with a wonderful view of the Big
Rideau on sultry summer’s eve. Also notice the typical carriage shed
with wide double doors at the back of the residence. This tells of a time
when many a village burgher boasted their own buggy for summer
travel and a sleigh for winter. A resident steed provided horsepower.
Stop #4 - Peter Bresee House, mid 1840s -
Peter Bresee, who had emigrated from Vermont, was an early farmer in the area and later a store owner. The brown building across the street once housed his business. A man of diverse talents and interests, Mr. Bresee was also involved in the smithing of black metal and the trading of timber. His successes are marked by his fine home of classical Georgian style with its symmetrical facade. Originally its windows were 12-over-12. But still of particular note are its fine return eaves and in its north gable, two eyebrow windows keeping an eye on the Big Rideau "from whence Peter's wealth cometh". Peter Bresee resided in his fine new home for only a few years until it became the residence of the Scovil family who for several generations have been legendary in local business and society.
Stop #5 - Clare Dowsett House, 1926 -
Once makers of
fine wagons and
carriages, the
Dowsett family
adapted their
talents to the
making of
fine boats as
summer
cottages came
to dot the shores
and islands of the
Big Rideau. Dowsett
boats became renowned across the continent and the family continued
in this business until the mid-1900’s. In 1926, Clare Dowsett
and his father built this fine home as the wedding abode for Clare and
his bride. Inside and out, this 1 ½ storey home reflects the meticulous
care, craftsmanship and passion of renowned boat-wrights who broke
with local architecture of their time. The naturally-dried butternut
shiplap siding is still draft-free after three-quarters of a century.
Europa-style shingles grace the gables. The wooden sashes of the 9
over 1 windows still rise and close freely for July breezes and seal
against the January blasts. Long before energy and conservation were
buzz words, the Dowsetts positioned most windows on the south and
west sides, away from cold winter gales off the Big Rideau. But on the
windward side, two small diamond quarry windows act as nautical
port holes through which to view the lake. Another port looks out
from the foyer beside the front entrance. The family colours of yellow
and green have historic maritime significance and the concrete
foundation was once painted blue to represent the sea, nurture and
nature for all boats. Truly, love poetry in architecture!
Stop #6 - Peter Cole House, c.1850s - Peter Cole was responsible for establishing several enterprises along
the Portland waterfront. His large wharf once bustled with shipping
and receiving.
By 1861, lumber from
Peter Cole’s saw mill
on a creek leading into
the Big Rideau Lake was
being loaded onto
steamers and barges
destined for the U.S.
North and for Britain. The Cole house is another fine example of the “Ontario Cottage”
design. Note its typical front gable window with a semi-circular
head and its verandah across the front façade. This house was later
purchased by William Gallagher whose family followed the Cole
tradition of owning and managing many businesses in the village.
Among these was a very prosperous general store located next door -
the original building suffered fire in 1930 and was rebuilt of brick as
you now see. Behind the store, beside the lake stands the Gallagher
warehouse, now a home. This structure was originally built in the
1870’s to store commodities to be shipped such as barrels of maple
syrup and boxes of cheddar cheese destined for the outer world.
Goods received included barrels of biscuits (now cookies) from the
near of Kingston and boxes of tea from the far of Ceylon (now Sri
Lanka).
Stop #7 - Eliza Hartwell House, c.1850 - A house of mystery, this pretty,
green-painted building is
legendary through
association. Nobody seems
to know who built it.
But it is known
that in its early
years, it was
the home of
Eliza Hartwell and
several members of Dowsett name, a family later earning fame across
the country and continent as boat wrights. From 1879 to 1924, it was
home to a succession of Gallaghers, famous in Portland tradition
for their entrepeneurship. And since 1924, it has been owned by
the Southam family of newspaper fame. With extensive heritage
properties elsewhere on the Big Rideau, the Hartwell House has
provided residence for the Southam property managers and a land
base for boat access to their other possessions. Note the adjacent
storage shed and boathouse that facilitate this role. As such, the
Hartwell House is representative of a time when Portland and much
of its commerce and population provided service for a number of
fine and legendary summer estates among nearby islands and bays.
Once Viscounts of navies, executives of Ford Motor Co., senators
from Ottawa and Washington, stars from Hollywood summered
with many others of fame and fortune. With families and friends,
they docked their fine boats at the Portland waterfront and reveled in
the annual Portland Regatta. The Hartwell house, though modest in
itself, is a nostalgic reminder of that magnificent era.
Stop #8 - Albert Gallagher Bank Building, 1903 - Prior to 1903 and the construction
of this first Portland bank, the
more prosperous of the village had
to take and make their financial
arrangements afar and away. In the
case of Mr. Gallagher, successful
and prosperous burgher, this
meant frequent trips to Smiths Falls, some twenty miles distant. He
accordingly made an offer to the Union Bank to erect this structure,
then lease it to them. Being a wise and shrewd businessman, Mr.
Gallagher built his bank as a typical and fine example of rural “bank
architecture”. Its imposing front façade with large arched windows
and door imposed a sense of assurance and security on those with
surplus shekels to save or loans to seek as they entered the bank
offices on the first floor. The living quarters of the manager and his
family were on the second floor, where he could stay “on top of the
money”. The Union Bank and its successor, the Royal Bank of Canada
continued to use this building until larger facilities were required.
Still of legend in Portland was the day the Bank was robbed.
Stop #9 - John Polk Store, 1891 - Constructed on the burnedout
ruins of a previous
store, this imposing
structure of solid
local sandstone
was both home
and enterprise of
the Polk family
for over 90 years.
Customers ascended the stone steps and passed through the recessed
entrance with its double doors into a classic general store. Behind
the long hardwood counter, bins and shelves from floor to ceiling
boasted the best from puffed rice to Rinso. The Polk family lived in
fine quarters to the north of the store and on occasions of leisure must
have enjoyed the airs and views from either level of their beautiful
balconied verandah, now meticulously restored. After 1920, a twostorey
wing was added to the south-west. This accommodated the
Portland Post Office and upstairs, the home of the post master who
was privileged with a separate and private entrance.
Stop #10 - The Gingerbread House - Likely dating from the 1880’s or 1890’s, this house
features lively gingerbread trim under the
eaves of its front gable. By the end of the
19th century, saw mills were a cornerstone
to Portland’s prosperity. They
were able to mass produce countless
functional items and decorative details
in wood. For over a century,
Portland was a cradle for the craftsmanship of coopers and cartwrights;
for products as diverse as fine boats to modern bungalows. The
invention of the scroll saw teamed with the talent of a fine artisan
made this decorative woodwork highlighting the eaves of this Gothic
Revival home.
Stop #11 - Harmon Toffey House, 1892 - Italianate in style with its exceptionally decorated porch and sixfoot-
high double window above, projecting eaves with brackets, and
attractive wooden trim, this home befitted a prosperous saw mill
owner.
Mr. and Mrs. Toffey lived elsewhere
in the village for 2 decades
prior to the building of
this fine residence. It is said
that he accumulated the
best of lumber from
his busy mill for
several years in preparation
for construction.
Like the Dowcett House (and Rome), this fine home was not “built
in a day”, or a year. The house situated to the east of the Toffey home
was once a shed on the Toffey property. Where is Mr. Toffey’s sawmill
now? Indeed where are the three hotels, several stores and a number
of fine homes that once graced Portland, its economy, its culture?
Fire was a frequent visitor here as in all villages in those years before
modern fire-fighting equipment and well-trained firefighters. A
series of several saw mills have bustled, then burned along Portland’s
Mill Bay where now marinas and a seniors residence manifest a very
different era.
Stop #12 - Portland Public School, 1888 - Mention has already been made of the previous village
school, as its sandstone was used in the foundation of
the United Church. Built in 1888 to replace a single
storey structure that had burned down,
this new school of two rooms
and storeys, was constructed
of red brick. From its
imposing location, it
provided students especially
with minds that wandered
from the three R’s to that
fourth “R”, namely Rideau Lake, its
vista. And in the decades before Highway 15 interrupted their
winter fun, Portland students could slide home for lunch by speedy
toboggan. One might wonder if the one o’clock ringing from the high
belfry brought them back to their books as speedily after lunch.
You can find further information on heritage life and architecturally
significant buildings in the Township of Rideau Lakes at any branch of the
Rideau Lakes Library. Ask to peruse: Cranworth Chronicles by Barbara Gibson
(South Burgess); History of the Township of North Crosby and Westport by
Neil Patterson; Hub of the Rideau by Sue Warren (South Crosby Ward); My
Own Four Walls by Diane Haskin (Bastard and South Burgess Ward); South
Elmsley in the Making by James Kennedy; and the many resources illustrating
heritage life in North Crosby to be found in the Westport Library and the
Westport Museum.
Disclaimer: Please note that the Heritage Advisory Committee of the Township of
Rideau Lakes has made every effort to ensure that the information provided herein is
accurate and is to be used as an information source only. We welcome new information
as it becomes available and will consider refining details in future publications We cannot
be liable for any injuries, inconvenience or financial loss that may occur to persons
participating in this tour. Please be advised that our walking, driving and bicycling
routes are not maintained exclusively by the Township of Rideau Lakes. Accordingly, the
Township of Rideau Lakes does not take responsibility for the condition of said route or
paths. Please enjoy your amble through Portland’s past. Please use courtesy and common
sense when traveling our Heritage Routes. Please don’t litter.
Township of Rideau Lakes, 1439 County Road 8, Delta, ON, K0E 1G0
email: info@twprideaulakes.on.ca
For general inquiries, administration, planning, public works, parks & rec, and fire department: Tel: 613-928-2251 or 1-800-928-2250 - Fax: 613-928-3097
For the tax office: Tel: 613-928-2896 or 1-866-677-4577
Chaffeys Lock Tour 
Download/view the brochure of this tour
Stop #2 - John Grant House, c.1872 - This sandstone house is
a variation of the mid
19th century “Ontario
Cottage” with a rectangular
shape, 1 1/2 storey and
transom and sidelights around
the front door. However, instead of the main entrance on the front
façade, it is on the gable end, likely because of the shape and slope of
the lot. Built by John Grant, local blacksmith, its masons worked with
massive and beautiful sandstone quarried from a nearby outcrop. The
house was later sold to Stephen Chipman, a cooper whose shop was
the board-and-batten barn still to be seen at the rear of the lot. There
he crafted barrels and other products of his artistry in wood that were
much in demand in rural life in times B.P. (before plastic, that is).
Stop #3 - William Snider House, c.1850s - This pleasant home is typical of the third-stage residence of a
successful pioneer artisan. William Snider, tanner and
shoemaker, built this handsome one and
one-half storey house
framed with handhewn
timbers.
Initially clad with
clapboard, it was later
stuccoed in gray. Its
medium pitched roof
has projecting eaves
and verges plus a moulded
cornice and frieze. The main entrance is off-centre. Note the wooden
transom and pilasters on the sides, typically to let abundant natural
light into the interior hallway in those decades before electric lighting.
An open and well-shaded verandah with closed railing provided the
Snider family and later residents with a wonderful view of the Big
Rideau on sultry summer’s eve. Also notice the typical carriage shed
with wide double doors at the back of the residence. This tells of a time
when many a village burgher boasted their own buggy for summer
travel and a sleigh for winter. A resident steed provided horsepower. 
Stop #4 - Peter Bresee House, mid 1840s -
Peter Bresee, who had emigrated from Vermont, was an early farmer in the area and later a store owner. The brown building across the street once housed his business. A man of diverse talents and interests, Mr. Bresee was also involved in the smithing of black metal and the trading of timber. His successes are marked by his fine home of classical Georgian style with its symmetrical facade. Originally its windows were 12-over-12. But still of particular note are its fine return eaves and in its north gable, two eyebrow windows keeping an eye on the Big Rideau "from whence Peter's wealth cometh". Peter Bresee resided in his fine new home for only a few years until it became the residence of the Scovil family who for several generations have been legendary in local business and society. 
Stop #5 - Clare Dowsett House, 1926 -
Once makers of
fine wagons and
carriages, the
Dowsett family
adapted their
talents to the
making of
fine boats as
summer
cottages came
to dot the shores
and islands of the
Big Rideau. Dowsett
boats became renowned across the continent and the family continued
in this business until the mid-1900’s. In 1926, Clare Dowsett
and his father built this fine home as the wedding abode for Clare and
his bride. Inside and out, this 1 ½ storey home reflects the meticulous
care, craftsmanship and passion of renowned boat-wrights who broke
with local architecture of their time. The naturally-dried butternut
shiplap siding is still draft-free after three-quarters of a century.
Europa-style shingles grace the gables. The wooden sashes of the 9
over 1 windows still rise and close freely for July breezes and seal
against the January blasts. Long before energy and conservation were
buzz words, the Dowsetts positioned most windows on the south and
west sides, away from cold winter gales off the Big Rideau. But on the
windward side, two small diamond quarry windows act as nautical
port holes through which to view the lake. Another port looks out
from the foyer beside the front entrance. The family colours of yellow
and green have historic maritime significance and the concrete
foundation was once painted blue to represent the sea, nurture and
nature for all boats. Truly, love poetry in architecture! 
Stop #6 - Peter Cole House, c.1850s - Peter Cole was responsible for establishing several enterprises along
the Portland waterfront. His large wharf once bustled with shipping
and receiving.
By 1861, lumber from
Peter Cole’s saw mill
on a creek leading into
the Big Rideau Lake was
being loaded onto
steamers and barges
destined for the U.S.
North and for Britain. The Cole house is another fine example of the “Ontario Cottage”
design. Note its typical front gable window with a semi-circular
head and its verandah across the front façade. This house was later
purchased by William Gallagher whose family followed the Cole
tradition of owning and managing many businesses in the village.
Among these was a very prosperous general store located next door -
the original building suffered fire in 1930 and was rebuilt of brick as
you now see. Behind the store, beside the lake stands the Gallagher
warehouse, now a home. This structure was originally built in the
1870’s to store commodities to be shipped such as barrels of maple
syrup and boxes of cheddar cheese destined for the outer world.
Goods received included barrels of biscuits (now cookies) from the
near of Kingston and boxes of tea from the far of Ceylon (now Sri
Lanka). 
Stop #7 - Eliza Hartwell House, c.1850 - A house of mystery, this pretty,
green-painted building is
legendary through
association. Nobody seems
to know who built it.
But it is known
that in its early
years, it was
the home of
Eliza Hartwell and
several members of Dowsett name, a family later earning fame across
the country and continent as boat wrights. From 1879 to 1924, it was
home to a succession of Gallaghers, famous in Portland tradition
for their entrepeneurship. And since 1924, it has been owned by
the Southam family of newspaper fame. With extensive heritage
properties elsewhere on the Big Rideau, the Hartwell House has
provided residence for the Southam property managers and a land
base for boat access to their other possessions. Note the adjacent
storage shed and boathouse that facilitate this role. As such, the
Hartwell House is representative of a time when Portland and much
of its commerce and population provided service for a number of
fine and legendary summer estates among nearby islands and bays.
Once Viscounts of navies, executives of Ford Motor Co., senators
from Ottawa and Washington, stars from Hollywood summered
with many others of fame and fortune. With families and friends,
they docked their fine boats at the Portland waterfront and reveled in
the annual Portland Regatta. The Hartwell house, though modest in
itself, is a nostalgic reminder of that magnificent era. 
Stop #8 - Albert Gallagher Bank Building, 1903 - Prior to 1903 and the construction
of this first Portland bank, the
more prosperous of the village had
to take and make their financial
arrangements afar and away. In the
case of Mr. Gallagher, successful
and prosperous burgher, this
meant frequent trips to Smiths Falls, some twenty miles distant. He
accordingly made an offer to the Union Bank to erect this structure,
then lease it to them. Being a wise and shrewd businessman, Mr.
Gallagher built his bank as a typical and fine example of rural “bank
architecture”. Its imposing front façade with large arched windows
and door imposed a sense of assurance and security on those with
surplus shekels to save or loans to seek as they entered the bank
offices on the first floor. The living quarters of the manager and his
family were on the second floor, where he could stay “on top of the
money”. The Union Bank and its successor, the Royal Bank of Canada
continued to use this building until larger facilities were required.
Still of legend in Portland was the day the Bank was robbed. 
Stop #9 - John Polk Store, 1891 - Constructed on the burnedout
ruins of a previous
store, this imposing
structure of solid
local sandstone
was both home
and enterprise of
the Polk family
for over 90 years.
Customers ascended the stone steps and passed through the recessed
entrance with its double doors into a classic general store. Behind
the long hardwood counter, bins and shelves from floor to ceiling
boasted the best from puffed rice to Rinso. The Polk family lived in
fine quarters to the north of the store and on occasions of leisure must
have enjoyed the airs and views from either level of their beautiful
balconied verandah, now meticulously restored. After 1920, a twostorey
wing was added to the south-west. This accommodated the
Portland Post Office and upstairs, the home of the post master who
was privileged with a separate and private entrance. 
Stop #10 - The Gingerbread House - Likely dating from the 1880’s or 1890’s, this house
features lively gingerbread trim under the
eaves of its front gable. By the end of the
19th century, saw mills were a cornerstone
to Portland’s prosperity. They
were able to mass produce countless
functional items and decorative details
in wood. For over a century,
Portland was a cradle for the craftsmanship of coopers and cartwrights;
for products as diverse as fine boats to modern bungalows. The
invention of the scroll saw teamed with the talent of a fine artisan
made this decorative woodwork highlighting the eaves of this Gothic
Revival home. 
Stop #11 - Harmon Toffey House, 1892 - Italianate in style with its exceptionally decorated porch and sixfoot-
high double window above, projecting eaves with brackets, and
attractive wooden trim, this home befitted a prosperous saw mill
owner.
Mr. and Mrs. Toffey lived elsewhere
in the village for 2 decades
prior to the building of
this fine residence. It is said
that he accumulated the
best of lumber from
his busy mill for
several years in preparation
for construction.
Like the Dowcett House (and Rome), this fine home was not “built
in a day”, or a year. The house situated to the east of the Toffey home
was once a shed on the Toffey property. Where is Mr. Toffey’s sawmill
now? Indeed where are the three hotels, several stores and a number
of fine homes that once graced Portland, its economy, its culture?
Fire was a frequent visitor here as in all villages in those years before
modern fire-fighting equipment and well-trained firefighters. A
series of several saw mills have bustled, then burned along Portland’s
Mill Bay where now marinas and a seniors residence manifest a very
different era.
Stop #12 - Portland Public School, 1888 - Mention has already been made of the previous village
school, as its sandstone was used in the foundation of
the United Church. Built in 1888 to replace a single
storey structure that had burned down,
this new school of two rooms
and storeys, was constructed
of red brick. From its
imposing location, it
provided students especially
with minds that wandered
from the three R’s to that
fourth “R”, namely Rideau Lake, its
vista. And in the decades before Highway 15 interrupted their
winter fun, Portland students could slide home for lunch by speedy
toboggan. One might wonder if the one o’clock ringing from the high
belfry brought them back to their books as speedily after lunch. 